The Big Cheese: Temple Owl Serves Up Philly’s Finest Fromage

What began as a chance job at a cheese shop led Jake Heller, CLA ’19, to an award-winning career as a cheesemaker—proving that success and passion can come from the most unexpected journeys.

By Matt Michaels

Jake Heller, CLA '19, had his passion for cheese began unexpectedly when he took a job at a local cheese shop in Narberth as a teenager. That experience opened his eyes to the complexity and artistry of cheese, eventually leading him to Temple University, where he balanced his studies with a job as a cheesemonger at Reading Terminal Market. Today, he works as a cheesemaker at Perrystead Dairy in Fishtown, where he combines science and creativity to craft unique cheeses. He’s won prestigious awards like the 2024 Cheesemonger Invitational and continues to experiment with bold new recipes. Jake’s journey—grounded in curiosity, community and craft—reflects his belief that food is both personal and cultural, and that there’s a place for everyone at the cheese counter.

The following Q&A has been condensed for clarity and conciseness.

What made you choose Temple for undergrad?

So, I grew up in Narberth, right outside Philly, and Temple seemed very accessible. I wanted something different from the suburbs, and I knew I wanted to be in the city—but not too far from home. Temple was easy to get to on the regional rail, and it was right where I wanted to be in Philly.

What extracurriculars or organizations filled your time while you were there?

I worked as a cheesemonger at the Reading Terminal Market—Downtown Cheese—while I was attending Temple. That took up most of my time outside of class. On campus, I spent a lot of time at the Tech Center and in Boyer Hall. I used the piano lounge and soundproof studios a lot because I do music on the side. I loved going there to be alone, play piano, and just hang out.

For those that don't know, can you explain what a cheesemonger is?

A cheesemonger, in the simplest terms, is someone who sells cheese. They're knowledgeable about talking to people, recommending products, and they know how to cut, store, and wrap cheese. A monger is also familiar with distribution, the food chain, how cheese is made, and even some of the science behind it.

And now you’re a cheesemaker. What’s the difference between a cheesemonger and a cheesemaker?

A cheesemaker might not sell cheese directly to people. Instead, they handle the milk, do the production, and oversee the entire process. They're the ones actually making the cheese.

So, backing up a bit — before you started working at Downtown Cheese, you first got a taste (no pun intended) of the world of cheese at Narberth Cheese Company. Tell us about that.

So, before working with cheese, I knew almost nothing about it—I mostly ate smoked gouda and Kraft singles. In high school, I got a job at the Narberth Cheese Company just because they were hiring, but I quickly became fascinated by the variety and complexity of cheeses. It was the first time I really tasted food intentionally. Growing up, I would just eat whatever was handed to me, but now there were these complex foods where each one was just a little different. You really had to pay deep attention to all the subtle differences between each one; all the little tasting notes. I found that a lot of people who came into the shop, they weren't familiar with these cheeses just as I was. It was very rewarding for me to be able to recommend a new product to someone and see the enjoyment in their eyes when they taste something that they've never had before.

Jake at Perrystead Dairy.

Jake at Perrystead Dairy.

What’s an average day like here at Perrystead? Say, 9 to 5—what happens?

I feel like a kid in a playground here. I get to experiment and have fun with my work. My typical day starts around 9 a.m. I head in, make an espresso—we’ve got a great machine in the back. On production days, we start by pasteurizing milk. You kind of live by the milk’s schedule. There’s downtime for cleaning or other tasks, but most of the day is spent making cheese: pasteurization, adding microbes and rennet, cutting curds, molding. That’s a solid 6-hour chunk of the day.

What makes this place unique? Is it just the city atmosphere or something else?

First, we’re centrally located in Philly, which gives us great access to local artists and creatives who help with packaging, events, and collaborations. Perrystead is also unique because we use alternative ingredients like vegetarian rennets—such as thistle rennet—and we work with a wide variety of microbes. The microbes are the soul of the cheese. They give us deep complexity and bold flavors you don’t find everywhere.

What advice would you give to students—maybe in CLA or another school—who are thinking of diverting into a less traditional path, like you did?

It’s hard to tell people to follow their passion, but honestly, the passion you bring to your work really helps you stand out. Finding something you enjoy doing every day makes all the difference. The cheese industry is small and niche—I didn’t realize that at first. It felt daunting, and I looked up to these cheese idols, microbiologists, textbook authors—thinking I’d never get to meet or learn from them. But now, I’m attending the same conferences they do. I’m in classes with the people who wrote the textbooks I read when I was starting out.

Thinking back to your time at Temple—how did that experience help prepare you for what you're doing now?

I always think back to a course I took with Allison Hayes-Conroy called Bodies and Geography. It taught me a lot about the relationship between food and place. More broadly, Temple got me excited about doing research and discovering new things. I had access to so much information, and I carry that curiosity with me today. Even within the field of cheese, I’m always looking to learn more—whether it’s about the science behind cheesemaking or the cultural history of a specific product. There’s always more to explore.

Tell us about the vending machine with cheeses outside. What’s the backstory, and how’s it doing?

The vending machine idea was conceived before I started here, but it wasn’t implemented until after I arrived. It’s been really popular—people show up at all hours, especially after local restaurants and bars close, to buy everything they need for a great cheeseboard or burger. I love it because it gives me a chance to interact with customers again. Cheesemaking can be isolating compared to cheesemongering, so when someone shows up, I get excited. I’ll run out, say hello, explain the cheeses, and sometimes even give them a quick tour of the creamery.

You won the Cheesemonger Invitational, which sounds like a huge deal. What goes into that competition?

Winning the Cheesemonger Invitational was a major highlight for me. It includes all the day-to-day skills of a cheesemonger: cutting the perfect quarter-pound slice, speed wrapping with clean presentation, creating food and beverage pairings, making cheese platters, and more. There’s also a blind taste test and a written exam. It’s intense but a great way to showcase your skills.

You also recently won a silver medal for a new cheese recipe. What inspired that?

Funny story. We developed that recipe specifically for an international competition. My boss, Yo, actually entered my coworker Ready and me into the competition before we even had a recipe. He said, “You’re going to make a cheese called the Mad Cap. The rest is in your hands.” So we brainstormed—maybe it’s shaped like a mushroom cap or a top hat. Eventually, we settled on a dunce cap shape. I was inspired by my favorite cheeses—especially lactic-style French goat cheeses like Valençay or Saint-Maure. I love the dry-aged style, which you don’t see much here. So I made something I personally wanted to eat—and that became the Mad Cap.

Since graduating, what’s your relationship been like with the alumni community?

I’ve kept in touch with a handful of friends I graduated with—we still get together and hang out. I’ve also interacted with Temple staff who’ve been really supportive of my career in cheese, especially after my success with the Cheesemonger Invitational. That’s been the extent of my alumni involvement so far.

The Perrystead Dairy vending machine, open 24/7.

The Perrystead Dairy vending machine, open 24/7.

I have to ask, if Temple had an official cheese, what would it be?

I had a lot of fun thinking about this. There was this cheese we used to sell at Downtown Cheese called Gray Owl. I thought that would be perfect for Temple—not only because of the owl mascot but because the “gray” reminded me of a wise, aged cheese. It just felt like a good symbol of Temple’s wisdom. The cheese itself is zesty, tangy, with a bloomy rind and a deep, wrinkly exterior—really captivating.

Ultimately, it seems like fate that you ended up at that Narberth shop that began your cheese journey. Where do you think you’d be if you hadn’t taken that job?

I think about that a lot. I also have a passion for music, so maybe I’d be working in a record store—recommending albums instead of cheeses. Something along those lines.

Music and cheese are both creative pursuits, right?

Definitely. It’s all art. When I play music, it’s almost like meditation—I’m completely in the moment. And funnily enough, it’s the same when I’m working with cheese. Whether I’m in the cave or in production, it’s a moment to just focus, stay present, and let the rest of the world fade out. That helps make good cheese—being centered and focused.

Jake at Perrystead Dairy.

Jake at Perrystead Dairy.

How do you think Philadelphia has influenced your relationship with cheese—or vice versa?

There’s this idea of terroir in cheesemaking—the taste of the land. But I think it’s less about the literal land and more about the people. Philly’s lifestyle, timing, and sense of community really come through in how cheese is made and enjoyed here. It shapes everything from the kinds of cheeses we make to how we share them. I really believe there’s a cheese for everyone—and that there’s no wrong way to eat cheese. If you like it, that’s all that matters.

You’ve accomplished a lot in just a few years. What's next for someone in your position? Are there levels in cheesemongering or cheesemaking? Where do you see yourself in 5, 10, or 15 years?

I try not to think of it as levels. I really loved cheesemongering and thought I’d stick with it forever. But now, I’m open to any opportunity. Whether it’s a cheesemaker gig or something else in the industry, I’m just excited to see what comes my way. That’s what keeps it fun.

Jake at Perrystead Dairy.

Jake at Perrystead Dairy.

Follow Jake Heller on Instagram at @Young_Cheeses!

Find out more information on Perrystead Dairy by following them on Instagram at @PerrysteadDairy or visiting their website here.